Monday, September 1, 2014

Design of experiment: Does it really help to have the solar fan to reduce the heat accumulation on your car?

After having installed a solar charge controller on my Prius with solar roof, I was concerned if the performance of fan to decrease the trapped heat inside the car will be reduced. The only way I can do that is by monitoring the temperature inside of the Prius using the vent with and without the charge controller activated. So I looked for some cheap temperature logger and found this on eBay from a Chinese vendor:
I paid ~$30usd for it with free shipping, so after looking to different options available, I liked this because the high ranges of temperature it can measure. I can just program the frequency to record data, it can record Temperature, Relative Humidity and dew point. It took a month to arrive but it will give a chance to the winter to end so that I can use it under more warm and sunny conditions.

When I finally have it in my hands, I decided that it would be a good idea to check how accurate it is to measure the temperature... when connected by the USB on my computer, the software the comes with it showed approximately the same reading from my infrared thermometer and from another desk thermometer I have.   Good! enough... but how good is to detect changes on the temperature overtime?   Well I leave it on my porch for 2 days taking readings, and then I compared it with data downloaded from Weather Underground.

Blue line are the readings from my temperature logger, and green line is from Weather Underground historic data for those days. Just ignore the other lines since they are humidity. Also be aware that I am using Celcius, so no, those are not freezing temperatures.

The pattern is very similar but as you can notice from the second day there is an out of phase on the data for more than an hour! I am not worry about the magnitude changes since there are factors that can change the readings for a couple of degrees since underground weather stations are not exactly on the same place as my sensor, and may be the sun on my porch can increase the readings on my logger.

I checked again the logger view of data with the software and noticed that the clock of the logger is not synchronized with the computer. Well, that's what I get with cheap Chinese items. I sent an e-mail to the eBay vendor, and also to the manufacturer to see if they are aware of the problem and it is possible that it can be fixed with some firmware update, however I never received a response from them. But anyway, this is not going to stop me. I can still calculate a "factor" to adjust the time registered for each reading assuming the out of phase is linear. And I am going to have the logger to work only around 8 hours recording data every 5 minutes. Doing this way, every day I planned to take measurements first step will be to sync the clock of the logger, and a the end of the day I will stop the recording, then record how much time is out of phase and then obtain a factor to adjust for every 5 minutes of increments. Sounds complicated right? But thanks to Google sheets, which is the free excel from Google, I can easily adjust the time recorded for each of my logger readings.
Look at the following chart, this time the lines of the temp readings from my logger match better the readings from weather underground.

Now that I have a temperature logger data that I can trust I can start my Design of Experiment. A design of experiments is basically an statistical tool to investigate how certain variables can affect to the results that we want. My objective is to reduce the interior temperature on my Prius, but it can be also to reduce the difference between outside temperature and inside temperature. The variables I used to plan my experiment were:

  1. Prius PV Cell Fan
  2. The effect of turning ON my battery charger controller using the PV cell. 
  3. Sunshield
  4. Slightly open the moon roof to let hot air escape from inside the car.(3 fingers)
They looked like few variables so I decided to do the full experiment, which is basically all the possible combinations. Then I have to do the the experiment on 16 days, that is one combination per day.
I performed the different trials when parking my car at work, trying to avoid any other variables, i parked always with my windshield pointing to the west so the full sun of the afternoon can enter to the car. Also as a reference, all the morning the car receives shade since there is a wall from the building on the east of the parking lot so there was not a significant increase of the trapped heat in the morning.

The following table is an example of the experiment and the different combinations to evaluate:
RunOrderFanCharging ControllerMoon
Roof
SunshadeHighest
Temperature
Difference
Inside
Temperature when driving back home
111-1112.347.3
21-11110.244.4
311-1-117.951.7
4-111-116.550.5
5-111110.244.8
61-11-115.554.1
7-1-1-1111.347.2
8-11-1-114.647.6
91-1-1-115.649
10-1-11-11550.7
11-11-11945.1
12111-11552.8
13111112.248.4
141-1-119.845.9
15-1-1118.145.3
16-1-1-1-11556.7

 1   Turned on, or open moon roof
-1   Turned off, or closed moon roof.
Yellow, Red, Pink and cream colors are used to identify trials where the results should not be different because having the charging controller on when the fan is off, should not be very different since the charging controller does not cool down the car.
The green on the results section is to identify the days that were completely without clouds. A variable difficult to control on the experiment is the sun, since most of the days were partially clouded. Because of that I planned another experiment including Sunny/partial cloudy days as a variable. However that DOE I decided to use half factorial, otherwise I will have to spent 32 days taking data under the conditions I need. Half factorial DOE still give us a very powerful analysis without having to perform all the combinations trials.

RunOrderSunny/CloudsFanCharging ControllerMoon RoofSunshadeHighest Temperature Difference
1SunnyFanOnonOpenOn12.2
2SunnyFanOffoffClosedOff18.6
3CloudyFanOffonOpenOn10.2
4CloudyFanOnoffOpenOn10.2
5SunnyFanOffonClosedOn11.2
6SunnyFanOnonClosedOff15.8
7SunnyFanOffoffOpenOn8.1
8SunnyFanOnoffOpenOff15.5
9SunnyFanOffonOpenOff15.5
10CloudyFanOffoffClosedOn12.3
11CloudyFanOffonClosedOff13.7
12CloudyFanOffoffOpenOff15
13CloudyFanOnonClosedOn12.3
14CloudyFanOnonOpenOff11
15CloudyFanOnoffClosedOff15.6
16SunnyFanOnoffClosedOn12.2

This time I placed the real condition on Minitab instead of the 1 or -1 that are as default.
If I was considering the lowest difference in external and internal temperature, the variable that most effect have on that is the sunshade. However, if I just consider the inside temperature at 5pm when I have to get inside the car, having a cloudy day or having the sunshade on are the variables have a strong effect.


To create the smaller difference of temperature outside/inside, then it needs to be Sunny, fan off, charging controller off, open moon roof, and sunshade installed. This is tricky because normally outside temperature will be lower than inside, so my goal is to have the inside temperature more near to outside.

For my goal to have a lower temperature inside my car when leaving work at 5pm the "optimal" combination based on the optimization plot from minitab is to be on a cloudy day, have the vent turned On, have the Charging controller off, the moon roof slightly open, and very important to have the SunShade blocking the Sun that heats the black dashboard of my Prius.

What about having the charging cell on or off? Does it affect the vent performance?


Based on these graphs, the steep angle lines are the ones with most effect, and as you can see fan and charging cell are almost flat, meaning they have not of a significant effect for my overall goal.

If you want to reduce the heat trapped inside your car, the solar cell vent is a really expensive option to have and the effect you will see to reduce internal temp does not worth the money. The most cheaper option and more effective will be the sunshade, but just don't buy those cheaper small ones, try to get those that fits better and covers most of the windshield in order to be more effective.


Saturday, June 21, 2014

Analyzing the performance of my battery charging controller

After I installed my solar controller on my Prius, I wanted to study how much it affect the task of the default purpose of just reducing the internal temperature of the car by turning On the vent with the PV cell. One difficulty for a complete check is that the fan is not always turned On, it requires full sun and certain temperature to start spinning. Here on the Rio Grande Valley, normally there is always clouds passing by, so when there is a cloud there is not enough power on the PV cell to turn on the fan. So I was patient to wait for full sun to take the measurements.
   The first task was to monitor the currents and voltages of my setup.
Then turn On the vent
Then turned On the battery charge controller
Wow the solar is charging my Aux battery, there is almost 3 Amp flowing to it and the voltage increased to 13.2.. Unfortunately it seems there was not enough current to turn on the vent.
Now I took readings, I don't remember if every minute or every 30 seconds.  But what it is interesting is that the voltage at the battery is increasing until a point that I think is the max voltage allowed by the controller to charge a battery. I think this is the stage on the controller called PWM charging. And as the battery voltage is getting saturated, the current is being decreasing allowing the voltage on the PV cell to rise to the point that now it could have enough energy available to start spinning the vent.
Excellent! The cell controller is still charging the battery but also allowing the vent to work and take the heat out of the car.  Wait! I still don't have enough evidence that actually it is taking heat out of the car, I only know that the vent is getting outside air to get inside of the car, but that does not mean that it is dropping considerably the trapped heat. Well I will cover this later with a Design of Experiment.
Let's continue observing the behavior of my system:
It looks like if there is not a cloud passing-by reducing the power on the PV cell, it can continue the PWM charging and allowing the vent to work with power not used from the controller to charge the battery.
However if any cloud is blocking the sun enough time to let the battery reduce its voltage level again to normal which is 12.8 V, then we will not have a vent working until it "charges" again the battery to the top PWM voltage level.

I think this experiment illustrate how my arrangement to maintain the charge of my Aux battery can still let the vent to work. However, I don't know if the vent is spinning at a lower speed because it does not have the full PV Cell power for it, and as I commented early, I still don't know how good is this vent/PV cell system from Toyota to reduce the heat accumulation inside the car during the day.

Saturday, January 18, 2014

My Prius solar hack installation

I wanted to use the solar cell coming from my Prius 2013 not only for the venting fan as it coming from factory, but to charge a battery. After reading several post and forums, I realized that connecting to the main traction battery will be expensive, complex and not so effective. Traction battery uses high DC voltages and the small charge coming from the solar cell will be almost imperceptible. Instead, I considered the secondary battery as my target, it  supplies current to all the accessories, including the electrical computer that controls if the Prius turns on or not.
     This battery is smaller than the typical car battery, and there are reports that it does not have a long life, probably less than the 2 expected years. When left parked for more than 2 weeks, the charge could be depleted. This car has a lot of electronics, so by maintain the battery charged on acceptable levels, it can last more.


The first step is to locate the point where I can intercept the current coming from the cell. Reading some documents posted for emergency response teams, it is mentioned that the solar cables are running from the left back corner of the roof (driver side). So I opened the hatch door, took off the left plastic panels and moved the ceiling cover a bit down so that I can see there a filter and then a connector coming from the cell.

(Be careful, this has to be performed with battery disconnected. As you can see on below picture on the left you can see the side air bag and any error can cause a catastrophic accident)
(A fellow from prius chat made it easy this step by finding the line running on the back left door panel)
With a quick connect splicer, I run a wire from there to the right side of the compartment where the secondary battery is. I noticed that the negative cable from the cell was grounded , so I decided not to waste cable on it.

The negative cable from the battery is connected to ground with a bolt nearby so there I hooked my negative cable. For the positive from the battery I used also another screw that was nearby the fuse and the connection to the battery. I placed a 7.5 amp fuse, so that I can protect the battery from overcurrent. I read max current accepted by the battery to avoid damage is 4.5 Amperes. Then from the +V coming from the cell I placed a switch so that I can disable that voltage. After that I was ready to install a solar controller.

I looked on ebay and found a cheaper controller for less than $10 USD, it was the CMP12


I was happy with it, until I had the chance to verify voltages and current flowing on it when it was a sunny day... and for my surprise this device was not working at all... seller also claimed it was a MPPT that of course it is not.

First, I checked the current and it was flowing about 2.5 amps on direction of the controller, and also on direction of the battery... later I sow -2 amps, meaning current was flowing on the cell direction!!!!!
What happened was that the automatic vent was turned on, and there was a cloud shading the solar cell, so the vent was sucking current from the battery controller and battery because solar cell was under shade...

I was a bit disappointing by the lack of protection of this controller, so turned the solar switch off and ordered a 2 dollar NTE573 60V 5 Amp Schottky Barrier Diode Rectifier #:NTE573
which included shipping on Ebay. A month later, it arrived, I soldered on the cable coming from the solar cell, and waited again for a sunny day to test the system again. A week later, I was able to test it.. now there was no backflow current... great... then I measured the voltage.. and o my god!



Device protection for over-voltage supposed to be 14.2V, and when verified the voltage at the battery, it was more than 15V... exactly the same voltage at the solar cell input... So this controller also did not protected for overcurrent!!!! It has a led indicating if it is charging or not, and it turned always off when reaching the 14.2v threshold , but higher voltage and current was still flowing to the battery...

Dissapointed, I made a claim on ebay so that I can receive my money back... some times those chinese guys refund all the money paid, some times they not... so I was not worry because it was a cheaper device... finally I got my money back..

Not learning my lesson, I decided to buy the next controller in price, that was about 13 dollars. It was the controller CMTP02
No matter it was a couple of dollars more expensive than the previous dummy unit, it looked of worst quality and worst design. Just recently I opened both units, and the CMP12 at least have a formal heatsink because the CMTP02 uses only the back tap as heat dissipation.

Short story with this controller, I tested just the over-voltage protection (black flow current already protected by my schotty diode), and confirmed that is as dummy as the CMP12... They don't protect at all, and seems their leds are the only thing that works on them...
On this unit, I am still negotiating with the EBAY seller the refund, and asking to stop selling fake controllers.

Finally, I decided to look for something of a better quality (and higher cost), and find theMorningstar SunGuard SG-4, 4.5 Amp 12V Charge Controller


This unit does not have control of the loads added to the system like the previous ones, it does not have any leds at all, but it does just what I needed: To control the charging of my battery with the solar cell. The unit is sealed, so it can be installed outdoors without any concerns.

I installed the SunGuard SG-4 on my car, tested for overvoltage protection... and it worked flawless. When I turn the car on, the car starts charging the battery increasing the voltage to 14.something volts, and checked the voltage of the cell it was on 20v... meaning no connection to the battery... checked the current and also there was no ampere flowing ... so it was working!!!!! It costed $30 usd... but at least it does what it supposed have to do.

I will continue my testings... since i want to make sure that when charging the battery there is still enough juice to let the vent to work and refresh the interior of my car on the hot summers of Texas.
(Link to my testing)